![]() ![]() ![]() We bought the PD4600 that was the recommended upgrade for our model of Magnetek. WFCO and Progressive Dynamics both make upgrade kits to the Magnetek. You could replace the entire converter, but the easy solution is one of the upgrades that use the original RV Magnetek converter box and circuit breakers (for the 120 VAC side) yet replace the guts and the fuse board (12 VDC side). The solution is an upgrade to your old converter to add a three-stage charger. We believe some later model Magneteks did have two-stage charging. The maker tried to pick a middle of the road charging level, but the result is bad at both ends. If you have gel or AGM batteries you may avoid the mess and you can’t add water, but it will shorten the life of your batteries. Also, if you leave your camper plugged in for too many days, it will likely “boil” (overcharge) your batteries, meaning not only making a mess, but also requiring you add distilled water often (if you have a standard wet cell batteries). Why? It is a very simple single-stage charger. The problem is that if you have a low battery and plug into shore power that Magnetek can take several days to fully recharge your battery. The Magnetek was the choice of many RV manufacturers for years. Magnetek Converter / Charger box – twist black plastic square latch at top to open (Red switch is solar cut-off) ![]() The battery charger for your house battery is built into your converter or your inverter, depending on what the RV manufacturer choose to install. ![]() There is a loss in doing this - it is always better when running off batteries to run 12 VDC appliances rather than using 120 VAC appliances on an inverter - your batteries will last longer. An inverter takes 12 VDC and “inverts” it to 120 VAC. For those not familiar with the differences, a converter takes 120 VAC (volts alternating current – like in your house) from either plugging into shore power or from your generator and “converts” it to 12 VDC (volts direct current - like your car battery). Your fuses and circuit breakers will be inside the cover of the converter box. Magneteks are very common in the RV world. If you have an older Roadtrek or many other older RVs you likely have a Magnetek Converter/Charger (newer Roadtreks have inverter/chargers like the Tripplite). The DC to DC converter will look after engine charging.Home » Blog » RV Equipment/Tips » How Tos » Power Up! How to Upgrade Your RV’s Magnetek Converter Use this to replace the AC section of the 6332 and connect the lithium battery to the output. My advice would be to purchase an AC battery charger that will act as a charger and power supply, ( Victron IP22 range, ) I doubt the converter would directly charge a lithium battery without burning out. I guess the 6332 converter acts as a power supply for 12v appliances when on shore power, My experiences with DC to DC chargers indicate the input current is 10 to 20% greater than the output current. Magnetek 6332 converter, from the data I can accesses, seems to have a average output voltage, (the ripple taken out by a battery) of around 13.8 volts with a maximum current of 32 amps. There is no problem feeding the DC to DC charger from the starter battery to provide engine power to charge the new battery. I would think there will be issues feeding into a DC to DC charger without a battery in place. The output is 'raw' full wave rectified and needs a battery load, ideally a lead acid, to produce a 'smooth' DC. I'm trying to maximize space use in an already cramped van and I can fit a large Lifepo4 battery in the existing house battery compartment and a dc to dc charge beside the power center.Ĭlick to expand.This is a simple DC power supply with battery charger option. The wiring from the house battery compartment to the DC distribution panel is about a 6 foot run but is only 8ga so I'm thinking 40 amps maximum but will likely opt for 30 amps to be safe. I plan to install a large Lifepo4 battery to power a fridge with a DC compressor and am considering the following:Ī DC to DC charger (that has a Lithium charging profile) with both the Magnetek 6332 DC output and the Alternator DC output to the DC input side of the charger and the DC charger output connected to the existing DC distribution panel and house battery. 80 Watts of portable solar panels with portable charge controller. There is also a battery isolator between the starter battery and the house battery that allows charging the house battery from the alternator when the van is running. It has no battery charging logic and just passes the converter voltage to the house battery. It has an old Magnetek 6332 converter for use with shore power. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |